Let’s do lunch with...
Above: Alice (left) with companion Emma Milne-White
Above: .
Who did you take?
Emma Milne-White who, together with her husband Alex, owns Hungerford’s first-rate independent bookshop. She’s sold hundreds of my latest book, High Sobriety – Confessions of a Drinker, so I reasoned I owed her lunch!
First impressions?
Modern, airy restaurant decorated in taupe and muted coffee colours with blue hyacinths on the tables. I’d already eyed-up this place earlier in the week as I crawled past in my car on the way to BBC Radio Berkshire up the road. Opening directly on the street, (don’t sit in the window if you’re having an affair!) its mouth-watering menu was like a siren.
Tell us about the menu.
All main ingredients are sourced within the British Isles with local produce being used as much as possible. Temptations on the spring menu include, Cornish scallops, Cumbrian air dried ham, Suffolk duck gizzard, pan-fried Hampshire trout and Somerset Capricorn Goat’s cheese. All the food is cooked from fresh with a choice of seven starters (priced from £4.95 to £8.75) seven main courses (£12.95 to £19.95) and six puddings (£5.95 to £7.50). A daily changing set lunch menu is exceptional value at £12.95 for two courses, £16.45 for three.
What did you both choose?
This was tricky as there were so many dishes we lusted after. Eventually, I settled on the ‘Cornish squid in light batter, Goring posh leaves, tomato and chilli jam’ followed by the ‘Steamed Cornish lemon sole fillets, Cornish scallop mousse, thin vegetable ribbons, watercress sauce’. Emma chose ‘Carpaccio of Cornish king scallops, ice cucumber and pea shoots salad, chilli and citrus dressing’, and the homemade ravioli with spinach and Lancashire cream cheese.
What did you drink?
As a recovering alcoholic, I drank fizzy Blenhiem water. But as an ex-wine critic I found the 27-strong wine list, well chosen and fairly priced. I suggested Emma tried a glass of the southern French, spicy, apricot-like Le Carredon, Marsanne, (£3.25 a glass). Old favourites included Rioja Reservas 2002 Muga, (£25 a bottle) and Nicholas Feuillatte Champagne (£6.50 a glass)
How did you rate your starters and main courses?
My squid was delicious, light and delicate with a kick from the homemade tomato and chilli jam. The scallops, raw and wafer thin simply melted in the mouth, the chilli and citrus dressing, subtle and not overpowering. I found the sole, while perfectly cooked, a little bland. I would have preferred more seasoning or a stronger flavoured sauce, but the ravioli was a triumph, a tangy combination of flavours.
Were you tempted by the desserts?
Yes, all of them! ‘A trio of rhubarb temptation – crumble, jelly and fool with homemade honeycomb’, served in shot glasses was an inspiration that hit the spot. Chocolate lovers will be seduced by the ‘warm, gooey milk chocolate pudding’, a chocolate fondant served with an unusual marmalade ice-cream.
What was the service like throughout the meal?
Seemingly effortless and professional, we were served by part owner, Mathew Siadatau who talks lovingly about his suppliers.
The acid test: would you recommend it to your friends?
Definitely, yes. My advice, go with five or six friends so you can sample most of the menu!
Read all about Alice’s salutary experiences as an alcoholic in the June edition of Berkshire & Chilterns Life when she talks about her new book, High Sobriety – Confessions of a Drinker (Orion).
***Every Thursday lunchtime, from May 8, the restaurant will run a ‘food gambling’ event, where you stand a 50/50 chance of getting your lunch for free!Every Thursday lunchtime, from May 8, the restaurant will run a ‘food gambling’ event, where you stand a 50/50 chance of getting your lunch for free!***
MYALACARTE
5 Prospect Street, Caversham,
Reading, Berkshire RG4 8JB
Tel: 0118 9463 400
www.myalacarte.co.uk
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